Best Hiking Headlamp Reviews: Brightness, Battery Life, and Weight Compared

I was about fourteen miles into a night hike on the Presidential Traverse in New Hampshire when my headlamp started fading. Not dead — just dim enough that I couldn’t read the trail markers on the rocky ridge. I slowed down, stopped twice to second-guess the route, and added an extra thirty minutes to a stretch I’d done a dozen times before. That was the last time I trusted a headlamp I hadn’t personally tested before a big outing.

Since then I’ve put a lot of headlamps through real trail use. Not spec-sheet reading — actual miles in the dark, in the rain, in cold that drains batteries faster than any manufacturer wants to admit. I’ve tested everything from sub-$20 models to $80 premium builds, and I’ve learned that the right headlamp isn’t the one with the highest number on the box.

This article breaks down the best hiking headlamps by brightness, battery life, and weight. My goal is simple: help you match a headlamp to how you actually hike, not just the best-case scenario in a product description.

What Makes a Good Hiking Headlamp?

A good hiking headlamp needs at least 200 lumens for trail visibility, a runtime of 4–8 hours, and a weight under 3 oz for most day and overnight hikes. Those three numbers — brightness, runtime, and weight — cover the basics for the majority of hikers.

Everything beyond that is about matching the headlamp to your specific type of hiking. Here’s how I think about each piece.

Why Headlamps Beat Handheld Flashlights on Trail

Your hands do a lot on a dark trail. They steady you on a steep section, hold your trekking poles, pull out your map, and catch you when you slip. A handheld flashlight ties one of them up the whole time.

A headlamp keeps both hands free and points light exactly where you’re looking — which is where you need it. When I’m picking through a rocky scramble at 5am, I’m not thinking about where to point my light. It just goes where my eyes go.

Handheld lights do have their place at camp, especially for reading or cooking where you want to aim the beam. But on trail, hands-free wins every time.

The Three Specs That Actually Matter

Lumens tell you how bright the headlamp is. Runtime tells you how long it lasts at a given brightness. Weight tells you whether you’ll still be comfortable wearing it at mile 15.

Most headlamp marketing leads with max lumens. That number is real, but it’s usually only achievable for a few minutes before the headlamp steps down to protect the battery. What matters more is how bright it runs at sustained mid-mode — the mode you’ll actually use for most of a hike.

I now look at specs this way: what does it put out at medium brightness, and how long does it last there? That’s the number that tells the real story.

Beam Type: Flood vs. Spot

A flood beam spreads light wide. It’s great for close tasks — setting up a tent, cooking, reading a map. A spot beam throws light farther ahead in a tighter column. It’s what you want when you’re reading trail markers 40 feet out on a dark ridge.

I learned this the hard way. On a trail in the White Mountains, I tried to read a junction sign ahead of me with a headlamp that had a wide flood beam. The light spread so broadly that I couldn’t focus it far enough to make out the text. I had to walk up to the sign to read it.

Some headlamps offer a mixed beam or let you switch between modes. That’s the most practical setup for hikers who do both trail walking and camping.

Comfort and Fit on Longer Hikes

A headlamp you don’t notice is a good headlamp. A heavy one, or one with a poorly designed strap, will be all you can think about by mile ten.

The strap should hold the lamp snug without digging in. Some models add an overhead strap for stability — useful on long nights or technical terrain but overkill for casual day hiking. The battery pack placement matters too. Rear-mounted batteries balance out front-heavy lamps and reduce neck fatigue on longer outings.

I’ve worn headlamps that left a headache behind and ones I forgot I had on. The difference is usually fit and balance, not just weight.

Water Resistance: What IPX Ratings Mean on Trail

IPX4 means the headlamp can handle splashing from any direction. That covers most trail conditions — rain, stream splashes, sweaty use. IPX7 means it can be submerged up to one meter for 30 minutes. That’s the spec you want for water crossings or very heavy rain.

For most hikers, IPX4 is enough. It covers rain, fog, and the occasional water bottle spill in your pack. I wouldn’t take anything below IPX4 on a serious hiking trip, and I’d push for IPX6 or IPX7 if I was hiking in the Pacific Northwest in spring, where rain isn’t occasional — it’s the whole experience.

Best Overall Hiking Headlamps — Top Picks Reviewed {#top-picks}

The top hiking headlamps right now include models from Black Diamond, Petzl, Nitecore, and Fenix. Each one earns its place for a different reason — brightness, hybrid battery, ultralight build, or high-output performance on technical terrain.

Here’s what I’ve learned from putting each one to actual use.

Black Diamond Spot 400 — Best All-Rounder

The Black Diamond Spot 400 is the headlamp I recommend to most hikers without hesitation. It puts out 400 lumens on high, runs comfortably for hours on medium, and handles rain without a problem. It weighs about 3.2 oz with batteries, which is on the heavier side but not enough to matter for most people.

The single-use AAA batteries are a trade-off. You can carry spares easily, but you can’t charge it from a USB cable. For hikers who spend time in the backcountry without power access, that’s actually an advantage. For city-based day hikers who want to charge and go, it can feel old-fashioned.

I’ve used this headlamp on everything from short sunrise hikes to multi-day trips in the White Mountains. The button layout is simple, the lock mode works reliably, and the tilt on the lamp head is smooth. If I had to choose one headlamp for someone who hikes across different types of terrain, this would be it.

Petzl Actik Core — Best Rechargeable Option

The Petzl Actik Core is built around a smart idea: it takes both a USB-rechargeable battery pack and standard AAA batteries as a backup. You charge it at home, use it on trail, and if the battery dies in the backcountry you can swap in AAAs from your pack.

It outputs 450 lumens at max and has a red light mode that’s genuinely useful. The strap is comfortable for extended wear. The one knock is that the mode switching can feel fiddly until you’ve used it a few times — there’s a learning curve in the dark if you haven’t practiced.

For hikers who go on weekend trips or longer backcountry routes, the hybrid battery system is one of the most practical features you’ll find at this price point. I’ve taken mine through rainy stretches in the Cascades with no issues.

Nitecore NU25 — Best Ultralight Pick

The Nitecore NU25 weighs 1.2 oz. That’s it. It’s light enough that you genuinely forget it’s on your head, which is both its best feature and, occasionally, its biggest problem — I’ve walked away from camp more than once and had to turn back for it.

It puts out 360 lumens on high and runs off a built-in USB-rechargeable battery. There’s no option for replaceable batteries, which makes it a poor choice for cold-weather trips or multi-week expeditions. But for fast-and-light day hikes and weekend backpacking in good conditions, it’s hard to beat.

The beam isn’t as far-reaching as the Black Diamond or Fenix on high mode. If you’re moving fast on technical terrain after dark, you’ll want more throw. For trail running and casual night hikes, it’s more than enough.

Fenix HM65R — Best for Technical Night Hiking

The Fenix HM65R is the most powerful headlamp in this group. It tops out at 1400 lumens and has two separate LED modules — one spot and one flood — that you can run independently or together. For technical ridge hiking or any route where you need to see far ahead and have wide peripheral visibility at the same time, it does things the other headlamps can’t.

It weighs 3.2 oz without batteries and runs off a USB-rechargeable 18650 cell. The runtime at full power is short — under two hours — but at mid mode it’ll run most of a night. The build quality is clearly a step up from the rest of the group.

The price reflects that. It’s the most expensive headlamp here, and it’s more headlamp than most casual hikers need. But if you night-hike regularly on exposed, rocky terrain where reading the trail at distance matters, it earns the money.

Budget Pick vs. Premium Pick Head-to-Head

A sub-$30 headlamp and a $60+ model often look similar in a product listing. They’re not. The budget version typically struggles with brightness consistency — it starts bright and dims faster than the spec sheet suggests. The housing feels cheaper, the strap wears out sooner, and the water resistance tends to be minimal.

The premium model costs more up front but holds its brightness longer, lasts more seasons, and usually has better features — hybrid power, tilt, lock mode, red light. For someone who hikes twice a year, the budget option might be fine. For anyone who goes out regularly, the premium model costs less over time because you don’t replace it every other season.

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Lumens Compared: How Bright Do You Actually Need? {#lumens}

For most hiking, 200–400 lumens is enough. Night hiking on technical terrain benefits from 500+ lumens. Anything over 1,000 lumens is more than you’ll use on a standard trail, and chasing that number comes at a cost to battery life.

The lumen number alone doesn’t tell you much without context. Here’s how to read it.

What Lumens Actually Mean on a Dark Trail

A headlamp rated at 400 lumens is bright. But 400-lumen flood beam and 400-lumen spot beam are completely different experiences on a dark trail. The flood spreads light wide but shallow. The spot throws it ahead in a narrow column.

For trail hiking, beam distance matters as much as raw brightness. You want to see the trail markers, the rock steps, and the route ahead — not just a wide glow around your feet. A headlamp with 250 lumens and a focused spot beam will often feel more useful on trail than a 400-lumen model built for wide-area camp use.

Low vs. High Mode: Why You’ll Rarely Use Max Brightness

I use high mode maybe five percent of the time. It’s for specific moments — reading a far trail marker, scanning a slope in the dark, checking whether something moving ahead is an animal or a hiker. For steady trail walking, medium mode is plenty and uses a fraction of the battery.

Running a headlamp at max output drains the battery fast and often triggers automatic brightness reduction within minutes anyway. Learn your headlamp’s medium mode and use it as the default. You’ll get hours more runtime with very little practical difference on trail.

Beam Distance vs. Brightness

I had a clear lesson in this on a rocky night section in Colorado. I was using a camp headlamp — wide, bright, and completely useless for reading the trail ten meters ahead. The beam lit up my feet beautifully and left everything past arm’s reach in shadow.

Beam distance is measured in meters and tells you how far the hotspot of the beam reaches. A headlamp with 50-meter beam distance will show you the trail ahead in a way that a 20-meter beam can’t, even if both are rated at similar lumens. Check beam distance alongside lumens when comparing models.

LED Efficiency Improvements in Recent Models

LED technology has improved enough that a current 300-lumen headlamp often outperforms a five-year-old 400-lumen model in practical brightness and battery life. Newer LEDs produce better light quality, more consistent color rendering, and longer runtimes at the same power draw.

This matters when you’re comparing old reviews with current models. A 2019 headlamp with a high lumen rating may not perform as well as a newer model with a lower spec. Check the manufacture year on any review you’re reading.

Battery Life: Rechargeable vs Replaceable {#battery}

Rechargeable headlamps are more convenient for day hikes and car camping. For multi-day backpacking in cold weather, AAA or AA battery models give more flexibility when you can’t recharge. The right answer depends on where you hike and how long you’re out.

USB Rechargeable: Pros and Cons for Backpackers

Charging a headlamp at home and heading out is simple. No loose batteries to track, no wondering if the AAs in your drawer are fresh. For day hikes and weekend trips where you start with a full charge, USB rechargeable headlamps are genuinely convenient.

The trade-off is power access. On a four-day backpacking trip, you either carry a power bank to recharge on trail or you manage your battery carefully. A power bank adds weight. Careful battery management means staying in medium or low mode more than you’d like.

Most USB rechargeable headlamps run 4–8 hours at mid-brightness on a full charge. That covers most overnight trips if you’re not running the light all night. For longer trips, carry a small power bank or choose a hybrid model.

AAA/AA Battery Models: The Case for Cold-Weather Reliability

I camped in Rocky Mountain National Park one October and woke up to temperatures well below freezing. My rechargeable headlamp, left in the tent’s front pocket overnight, was at forty percent capacity. By morning it was nearly dead — the cold had drained it without any use.

Standard lithium AA or AAA batteries handle cold much better than lithium-ion cells. They’re also available at any gas station or grocery store on the way to the trailhead. For winter hiking or early spring trips where temperatures drop overnight, a battery-powered model gives you options that a USB-only headlamp doesn’t.

I now carry a spare set of AAs on any trip where temperatures will drop below freezing. Weighs almost nothing. Has saved me twice.

Hybrid Headlamps: Best of Both

The Petzl Actik Core is the clearest example of a hybrid headlamp done right. It uses Petzl’s rechargeable CORE battery as the default, but it also accepts a standard AAA battery adapter. If you’re three days into a trip and your charge is low, you pull out the AAAs from your emergency kit and keep going.

That flexibility is worth real money for backcountry hikers. You get the convenience of USB charging for day-to-day use and the security of replaceable batteries when you’re far from any outlet. The extra cost over a basic model is easy to justify if you do multi-day trips.

Runtime Claims vs. Real-World Use

Manufacturers measure runtime at the lowest brightness setting. The number on the box — “200 hours runtime” — means almost nothing unless you plan to hike by the faintest possible glow. At medium brightness, expect roughly 25–35% of the stated maximum runtime.

Test your headlamp at home at medium brightness before any serious trip. Time it yourself. That number is what you can plan around.

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Weight Matters: Ultralight and Compact Headlamp Options {#weight}

The lightest hiking headlamps weigh under 1 oz. Most solid trail headlamps fall between 1.5–3 oz. Anything over 4 oz starts to feel noticeable on a long night hike, especially when you’re already carrying a full pack.

Why Weight Matters More Than Hikers Expect

Nobody thinks a headlamp is heavy when they’re standing in the gear shop. It’s a small thing. You put it on your head and forget about it.

Then you hit mile eighteen on a route through the San Juan Mountains, your neck is tired, and the extra two ounces on your forehead suddenly make themselves known. Weight compounds over distance. A headlamp that feels like nothing at the trailhead can feel like something by the end of a long day.

This is especially true for trail runners or anyone doing high-mileage days. For a two-mile evening walk, it doesn’t matter at all. For a twenty-mile route, it adds up.

Sub-1 oz Headlamps: What You Give Up

The Nitecore NU25 at 1.2 oz is about as light as you can go while still getting a usable headlamp. Below that, you’re trading brightness, battery capacity, and durability for weight savings that most hikers don’t need.

Sub-1 oz headlamps tend to top out around 200 lumens, run off tiny built-in batteries with short runtimes, and use plastic construction that won’t take much abuse. For fair-weather day hikes on well-marked trails, they’re fine. For technical terrain, multi-day trips, or bad weather, they leave gaps.

The 2–3 oz Sweet Spot for Most Hikers

My everyday trail headlamp weighs 2.4 oz with batteries. It’s light enough that I don’t notice it during a full day out, and heavy enough to fit a battery that lasts a long night. That range — 1.5 to 3 oz — is where most of the best trail headlamps live.

You give up almost nothing compared to the ultralight end, and you gain meaningful runtime and durability. Unless you’re cutting every possible ounce on a long thru-hike, the sweet spot is 2–3 oz.

Comparing Weight Across Reviewed Models

The Nitecore NU25 is the lightest at 1.2 oz. The Black Diamond Spot 400 and Fenix HM65R both come in around 3.2 oz with batteries. The Petzl Actik Core sits in the middle at around 2.9 oz with the CORE battery installed. Weight differences between the top models are small enough that beam type, battery system, and build quality should drive most buying decisions.

Best Budget Hiking Headlamps {#budget}

You can get a reliable hiking headlamp for under $30. Look for at least 200 lumens, IPX4 water resistance, and a runtime of 4+ hours at mid-brightness. Those three criteria cut through most of the noise in the budget category.

What to Expect From a Sub-$30 Headlamp

Budget headlamps can handle basic trail use. They’ll light your way on a well-marked path, help you set up camp after dark, and get you through a short night section. What they usually can’t do is maintain consistent brightness over a long runtime or stand up to hard use over multiple seasons.

The plastic housing tends to feel light in a way that reads as fragile. The straps stretch and weaken faster. The beam quality is sometimes uneven — bright in the center, dim at the edges — which becomes noticeable on trail after a while.

For someone who hikes a few times a year on established trails, a budget headlamp is a reasonable starting point. Just don’t rely on it for technical terrain or multi-day trips in bad conditions.

Best Budget Pick and Why It Earns Its Place

The Black Diamond Spot Lite 200 comes in under $30 and delivers more than most budget headlamps. It’s lightweight at 1.4 oz, water resistant to IPX8, and runs a clean 200-lumen beam that holds up well at mid-mode. It runs on standard AAA batteries, which keeps it simple.

I’ve lent it to hiking partners on weekend trips and it’s held up every time. The build isn’t as solid as the full Spot 400, and the max brightness is noticeably less, but for casual use it performs well above its price. It’s a good first headlamp for someone new to night hiking.

Where Budget Headlamps Fall Short

The main problem I’ve seen with cheap headlamps is brightness drop-off. They advertise 200 lumens but hit that only at max mode, which drains the batteries in an hour. At the output level you’d actually use for an evening hike, many budget models are dimmer than their specs suggest.

Durability is the other gap. A $25 headlamp might last one season with moderate use, or three seasons with careful use. A $60 headlamp tends to last five or six seasons without issue. Run the math on replacements and the premium model often wins.

When It Makes Sense to Spend More

Spend more if you night-hike regularly, hike in wet weather, or go on multi-day trips. The features that cost money — hybrid battery, tilt head, bright spot beam, solid IPX rating — aren’t luxuries on those trips. They’re the difference between a good night out and a frustrating one.

Spend less if you hike in daylight most of the time, only need a headlamp for camp use, or are buying a spare for the group gear bag. Budget headlamps fill those roles fine.

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Special Use Cases: Night Hiking, Trail Running, and Backpacking {#use-cases}

The right headlamp for night hiking, trail running, and backpacking are three different things. Trail runners need minimal bounce and a secure fit. Night hikers need strong output and reliable runtime. Backpackers need to balance weight against how many days they’ll be out.

Night Hiking: What to Prioritize

Night hiking asks more of a headlamp than daytime hiking. You need reliable brightness, a beam that reads the trail ahead at distance, and a runtime that outlasts your planned hours in the dark.

I prioritize beam distance and consistent mid-mode output for night hiking. Max lumens matters less than how bright the headlamp is after two hours of use. Look for a model with a regulated output — one that holds brightness steady rather than slowly dimming as the battery drains.

The Fenix HM65R and Black Diamond Spot 400 both handle night hiking well. The Fenix wins on raw output; the Black Diamond wins on simplicity.

Trail Running Headlamps: Fit and Stability First

Running with a headlamp bouncing on your forehead is miserable. The light strobes with every footfall and makes it hard to read the trail surface. Good trail running headlamps use wider, more elastic straps and sometimes a top strap to lock the lamp against your skull.

Weight matters more here than in any other category. The Nitecore NU25 at 1.2 oz is genuinely good for trail running — light enough to wear without thinking, bright enough for moderate terrain. If you’re racing or doing technical mountain running, look at dedicated running models from Petzl or Black Diamond that are designed specifically for the movement.

Backpacking: The Weight-Battery Trade-Off

For backpacking, you’re managing two limited resources: battery power and pack weight. A heavy headlamp with a long runtime might be worth it on a single overnight. On a seven-day route, every ounce you carry matters more.

I use a 2.4 oz headlamp for most backpacking trips and bring a small power bank that weighs less than 3 oz. That setup covers me for a week without ever worrying about going dark. On shorter trips, I skip the power bank and manage my battery use carefully.

Car Camping vs. Backcountry — Different Needs, Different Picks

Car camping forgives almost anything. You can bring a heavier headlamp, forget a spare battery, and still be fine because the car is a hundred yards away. Brightness is nice, comfort matters, but the stakes are low.

Backcountry hiking is different. You’re carrying everything you need, far from easy fixes. Your headlamp needs to be reliable, light, weather-resistant, and have enough runtime to cover real darkness. The budget headlamp that works fine at the campground may not be what you want on a pre-dawn Mt. Whitney summit push.

Red Light Mode and Other Features Worth Having {#features}

Red light mode preserves night vision and won’t disturb other hikers or campers. It’s one of the genuinely useful features on a trail headlamp — not just a box-ticking spec.

Red Light Mode: What It’s Actually For

Your eyes adapt to darkness over about twenty minutes. Once they’re adjusted, a bright white beam will blow that out instantly and leave you effectively blind for the next several minutes. Red light preserves that adaptation.

I use red light mode around camp almost exclusively. Reading a map, finding gear in the tent, moving around a shared campsite without waking everyone up — red light handles all of it without torching anyone’s night vision. On a group campsite in the Enchantments where eight people were trying to sleep before a 4am start, a red-light-only policy saved a lot of grumbling.

Adjustable Beam: Tilt vs. Fixed

A headlamp with a tilting head lets you angle the beam down when you’re standing still at camp and forward when you’re moving on trail. It sounds minor until you’ve spent a night with a fixed-beam headlamp that aims at the horizon while you’re trying to cook something.

Most good trail headlamps have a tilt mechanism. Make sure it locks positively — loose tilt that drifts is worse than no tilt at all. The Black Diamond Spot 400 has a tilt that clicks firmly into place. That kind of positive lock is what you want.

Lock Mode: The Underrated Feature

I’ve opened my pack mid-hike to find my headlamp had switched itself on and burned through half its battery against the inside of a dry bag. It happens. A simple button lock mode prevents it.

Lock mode usually activates by holding the power button for a few seconds. It takes one second to lock and one second to unlock. It’s the kind of feature that feels unnecessary until the one time you need it — and then you can’t believe you ever used a headlamp without it.

Strobe/SOS Mode for Hiking Safety

Most hiking headlamps include a strobe or SOS mode. If you’re signaling for rescue or trying to alert oncoming traffic on a road crossing after dark, a visible flashing light is more effective than a steady beam.

I’ve never had to use SOS mode in a real emergency. I hope it stays that way. But I’ve run the pattern a few times on practice, and it’s genuinely visible from distance. For anyone hiking solo in remote terrain, knowing how to activate it quickly is worth five minutes of practice at home before you ever need it.

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FAQ: Hiking Headlamps

What is the best headlamp for hiking?

The Black Diamond Spot 400 is the best all-around hiking headlamp for most people. It’s bright, reliable, works in rain, and runs on standard AAA batteries you can find anywhere. If you want USB charging with a backup battery option, the Petzl Actik Core is the better pick.

How many lumens do I need for night hiking?

For most night hiking on marked trails, 200–400 lumens is enough. For technical terrain, off-trail navigation, or routes with poor marking, 400–600 lumens gives you better beam distance and more confidence in the dark. Max lumens above 800 is rarely needed for trail use.

Are rechargeable headlamps better for hiking than battery-powered ones?

It depends on your hiking. For day hikes and weekend trips where you can charge at home, rechargeable models are easier to manage. For multi-day backcountry trips, especially in cold weather, standard battery models give you more flexibility. Hybrid models like the Petzl Actik Core offer both options.

How long should a hiking headlamp battery last?

At medium brightness, a good hiking headlamp should last 6–10 hours on a full charge or fresh batteries. Manufacturer specs often reflect lowest-mode runtime, which can be 50–100 hours. Plan around medium-mode runtime — that’s the number that matters on trail.

What does IPX4 mean on a hiking headlamp?

IPX4 means the headlamp can handle water splashing from any direction without damage. It covers rain, sweat, and minor water exposure. IPX6 and IPX7 cover heavier rain and brief submersion. For most trail hiking, IPX4 is adequate. For Pacific Northwest hiking or water crossings, IPX6 or IPX7 is worth having.

Is 300 lumens enough for hiking at night?

Yes, for most night hiking on established trails, 300 lumens is plenty. The more important spec is beam distance — a focused 300-lumen beam that reaches 60 meters is more useful on trail than a wide 300-lumen flood that lights up your feet. Check both lumens and beam distance before buying.

What is red light mode on a headlamp used for?

Red light mode preserves your eyes’ natural night vision, which a white beam destroys in seconds. It’s used for reading maps, moving around camp, and any task where you want to stay dark-adapted. It’s also considerate of other hikers and campers who are already adapted to the dark.

How heavy should a backpacking headlamp be?

For backpacking, a headlamp in the 1.5–3 oz range is the practical target. Lighter models (under 1.5 oz) often sacrifice battery life or durability. Heavier models (over 3.5 oz) add weight without enough benefit for most backpacking use. The Nitecore NU25 at 1.2 oz and Petzl Actik Core at 2.9 oz bracket the useful range.

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Final Thoughts {#conclusion}

Choosing a hiking headlamp isn’t complicated, but it’s easy to make the wrong call if you’re just chasing the biggest lumen number. Brightness matters. So do battery life, beam type, weight, and whether the power system fits how you actually hike.

For most hikers, the Black Diamond Spot 400 or Petzl Actik Core will cover everything without compromise. If you go light and fast, the Nitecore NU25 is the headlamp to beat. If you night-hike on serious terrain regularly, the Fenix HM65R earns its place in your kit.

And whatever you pick — test it before you need it. Run it at medium brightness for a full evening at home. Learn the modes. Practice the lock. Don’t be the person figuring out the button sequence at mile fourteen on a dark ridge.

If you found this useful, I’d love to hear what headlamp you’re running and how it’s been holding up on trail. Drop a comment below.

And if you’re thinking about your first night hike, check out my post on night hiking safety tips — it covers what to bring, how to read a trail in the dark, and a few lessons I wish I’d had before that first ridge walk in the dark.

Read More:

→ Night hiking safety tips
→ What to bring on a day hike
→ Hiking backpack essentials
→ Best lightweight hiking gear