The first time I hiked with poles, I felt ridiculous. I was on a straightforward trail in the Cascades — mostly flat, nothing technical — and I kept fumbling them, clacking them together, and planting them in all the wrong spots. For about ten minutes, I was ready to strap them to my pack and forget the whole thing. Then something clicked. My stride settled, my arms found a rhythm, and I stopped thinking about it. I have never done a long trail without poles since.
To use hiking poles correctly, size them so your elbow bends at 90 degrees, thread your hand up through the wrist strap before gripping the handle, and plant the opposite pole to your forward foot with every step. Shorten them going uphill, lengthen them going downhill, and stay relaxed through the whole thing.
That is the short answer. The longer answer — the one that will actually help you — covers every part of that process in detail. By the end of this post, you will know how to size, grip, plant, and adjust your poles for any trail you get on.
Best trekking poles for hiking
Why Hiking Poles Are Worth Learning?
Hiking poles reduce knee strain, improve your balance on rough ground, and help you cover more miles with less tiredness — especially on longer trails or when you are carrying a pack.
A lot of beginners see poles as something only older hikers use, or something you need only on steep mountains. That is not true. I bring them on day hikes, I bring them on overnights, and I bring them on trails where the elevation profile looks totally tame. They do more than most people expect.
They Take Pressure Off Your Knees
Every downhill step you take sends a small jolt through your knee joint. On a flat sidewalk that is no big deal. On a 2,000-foot descent on rocky trail, those jolts add up fast. Poles let you push some of that load through your arms and shoulders instead. Studies from the Journal of Sports Sciences have found trekking poles can reduce the force on your knees by up to 25 percent going downhill. I cannot quote exact numbers from memory, but I can tell you my knees feel it when I forget my poles on a big descent.
They Improve Your Balance on Rough Ground
On flat trail you have two points of contact with the ground. Add two poles and you have four. On rocks, tree roots, mud, and creek crossings, that extra contact makes a real difference. I have kept myself from going down hard more than once just because a pole was already planted when my foot slipped.
They Help You Hike Longer with Less Tiredness
Poles spread the work of hiking across your whole body instead of piling it all on your legs. The push-off from each pole plant uses your arms, shoulders, and core. Your legs do less per step. That adds up over 10 miles in a way you will feel at the end of the day — or rather, you will feel it less.
They Are Useful for Pack Weight Too
The heavier your pack, the more poles help. When you are carrying a loaded backpack, your center of gravity shifts backward and your balance gets harder to hold. Poles give you two extra anchors to work with. If you ever plan to do overnight trips or backpacking, get comfortable with poles now.
I did a back-to-back comparison on two nearly identical trails in Oregon one fall — same distance, same elevation gain, same pack weight. First trail without poles. Second trail with poles. My knees were talking to me on the drive home after the first one. After the second, nothing. That was enough for me.
How to Size Hiking Poles Correctly
To size hiking poles, stand upright, hold the grip, and adjust until your elbow is bent at roughly 90 degrees. Shorten them a few centimeters for steep uphill. Lengthen them for downhill.
Getting the length wrong is the most common beginner error I see. It is also the easiest to fix once you know what to look for.
The 90-Degree Elbow Rule
Stand straight. Hold your pole with the tip on the ground. Adjust the length until your forearm is parallel to the ground — elbow at a right angle, upper arm hanging naturally at your side. That is your base setting for flat trail. Everything else adjusts from there.
Adjusting for Uphill
When you are climbing, shorten each pole by about 5 to 10 centimeters. Your contact point on the ground is now closer to you because the trail is rising. If you keep poles at flat-terrain length, you end up overreaching and pushing at a bad angle. Shorter poles let you drive straight down and get real push with each step.
Adjusting for Downhill
Going down, lengthen your poles by that same 5 to 10 centimeters. You are reaching further down the slope with every plant. Longer poles put the grip at a comfortable height so you are not hunching forward or bending awkwardly to get contact with the ground ahead of you.
Sizing for Different Heights
Most adjustable poles have length markings on the shaft. A rough starting point: if you are between 5’0″ and 5’4″, try 100–110 cm. From 5’5″ to 5’10”, try 110–120 cm. Over 5’10”, start around 120–130 cm. These are starting points, not exact fits — use the 90-degree rule to dial it in from there.
Fixed-Length vs Adjustable Poles
Fixed-length poles are lighter and stiffer, but you cannot change them on the trail. For beginners, adjustable poles are the right call every time. You need to be able to change length as terrain changes, and you probably do not know yet where your sweet spot is. Get adjustable, learn what works, then think about fixed-length later.
A friend of mine showed up at a trailhead in the Columbia River Gorge with brand-new poles set way too tall. She was overreaching on every plant and her shoulders were already aching before the first mile. Two minutes of adjustment fixed it completely. Do not skip this step.
How to Hold Hiking Poles the Right Way?
Thread your hand up through the wrist strap from below, then close your grip around both the strap and the handle. This puts the load on the strap, not your hand, so your forearm stays fresh.
Most people pick up poles for the first time and just grab the handle. That works for about an hour before your forearms start to burn. The strap is not just there to keep you from losing the pole — it is doing real structural work when you use it correctly.
How to Use the Wrist Strap Correctly
Come at the strap from below. Push your hand up through the loop, then let your wrist sit in the strap as you close your fingers around the grip. When you plant the pole and push off, the strap catches the load across your palm and wrist. Your fingers barely need to squeeze at all. This is how you hike eight hours without forearm fatigue.
Grip Pressure — Hold Loose, Not Tight
Once your strap is set, your grip should be light. Think of it like holding a pen, not a hammer. Your fingers guide the pole; the strap does the work. I clenched too hard on a long trail in the White Mountains of New Hampshire once and had a forearm cramp so bad I had to stop and shake it out. After that I made a habit of checking my grip pressure every hour or so — open the hand, let it relax, close again gently.
Cork vs. Foam vs. Rubber Handles
Cork is the classic choice. It molds slightly to your hand over time and handles sweat well. Foam is softer and very comfortable in cold weather with gloves. Rubber is the most durable and works in rain, but it can get slippery and cause blisters in warm weather. For most beginners, cork or foam is the right starting point.
Gloves and Grip in Cold Weather
Cold weather hiking changes how the strap feels. Thick gloves make straps harder to adjust and can reduce how well you feel the grip. If you hike in cold conditions regularly, look for poles with extended foam grips below the main handle — you can choke down on the shaft without re-adjusting the strap on steep terrain, and your gloved hand still has something comfortable to hold.
How to Plant Your Poles When You Walk?
Plant the opposite pole to your forward foot — right foot forward, left pole plants. Keep a natural arm swing. Do not over-reach forward or stab the tip too far behind you.
This is where beginners get in their own heads. They try to think through each plant consciously and end up looking like they are fighting the poles instead of using them. The rhythm is actually your natural walking arm swing — you are already doing it without poles.
The Opposite-Arm Rhythm
When you walk without poles, your right arm swings forward as your left foot steps. Your left arm swings as your right foot steps. Poles just follow that same pattern. Right foot steps, left pole plants. Left foot steps, right pole plants. It feels unnatural for about 15 minutes, then it disappears into autopilot.
Where to Plant — Angle and Distance
Do not plant straight down. The pole should angle slightly backward — tip behind the grip line — so that when you push off, the force travels through the shaft efficiently. Think of it as a push back, not a poke down. Plant the tip roughly level with your hip as your opposite foot passes it.
Pacing: Matching Poles to Your Stride
At first you may feel like you are thinking in four separate pieces: left foot, right foot, left pole, right pole. Give it time. After a mile or two on flat trail, your brain files it away and runs it automatically. You stop thinking about it and start just hiking. That shift happens faster than most beginners expect.
When to Use One Pole vs. Two
There are moments on trail where two poles get in the way. Narrow switchbacks where you need to grab a tree or a rock. Stream crossings where you want one hand free. A steep scramble where hands-on contact with the ground is safer than a pole tip. In those spots, stow one pole on your pack or hold both in one hand. Do not let the poles become a problem on terrain that does not need them.
I spent a Saturday morning on the Centennial Trail in South Dakota practicing rhythm on a long flat stretch before I ever took my poles onto a technical trail. Thirty minutes of boring flat hiking, just grooving the pattern. It paid off the first time I was on broken terrain and did not have to think about my poles at all.
How to Use Poles on Uphill and Downhill Terrain?
Going uphill, shorten your poles and push down through them to drive each step forward. Going downhill, lengthen them and plant ahead of your feet to slow your pace and protect your knees.
Flat trail is where you learn the basics. But poles earn their keep on the climbs and the descents.
Uphill Technique: Push, Don’t Pull
On a climb, your poles should push you up, not pull you forward. Plant the tip beside or slightly behind your hip, grip the handle, and drive down through the shaft as your opposite foot steps. That push drives your body uphill with each stride. If you plant too far ahead and try to pull yourself forward, you waste energy and stress your wrists. Shorten the poles so you are not reaching too far down to make contact.
Downhill Technique: Poles as Brakes
This is where poles made the biggest difference for me as a beginner. On a long descent, your quads take a beating absorbing the force of each step. Poles let you transfer some of that braking work to your arms. Lengthen them so you can reach ahead and below. Plant firmly before each step down, lean slightly into the poles, and let them slow your forward momentum. It turns a quad-thrashing descent into something much more manageable.
Switchbacks and Tight Turns
On tight switchbacks, poles can trip you up if you are not paying attention. As you change direction, shorten your grip to a lower point on the handle, or just let the inside pole trail lightly behind you through the turn. Get the tips clear of your feet on the turn and pick the rhythm back up on the next straight section.
Scrambling and Rocky Terrain
When a trail turns into a scramble — hands on rock, steep enough to need three points of contact — collapse your poles and stow them. Most adjustable poles fold down or collapse in seconds. Your hands are more useful on technical rock than pole tips are. I do this routinely on trails in Rocky Mountain National Park where the final push to a summit involves real scrambling. Poles on your pack, hands on rock.
Stream Crossings
Moving water is where poles really show their value. Plant both poles upstream of your crossing line to give yourself a stable base. Step one foot at a time, keep the poles planted, and move methodically. Even ankle-deep crossings on slick rock can send you down without a stable point. Poles have kept me upright on more creek crossings than I can count.
On my first trip into the North Cascades in Washington, I had a long descent on loose scree after a ridge crossing. Without poles I would have been sliding and grabbing for balance on every other step. With them, I just walked — slowly, carefully, but walked. My hiking partner without poles was struggling the whole way down.
Common Hiking Pole Mistakes Beginners Make?
The most common hiking pole mistakes are skipping the wrist strap, keeping the same length all hike, gripping too tight, and never adjusting for terrain changes.
I made every one of these mistakes. Here they are so you do not have to.
Not Using the Wrist Strap
This is the most common one. People grab the grip and go. An hour later their hands are tired and they cannot figure out why. Use the strap every time, every trail. It is not optional.
Keeping the Same Length All Hike
Set it and forget it feels like the easy option. But a pole length that works on flat trail is wrong for a big climb and wrong for a long descent. Take 30 seconds to adjust at the bottom of a significant hill. Your knees and shoulders will thank you.
Gripping Too Tight
Your fingers should be relaxed. If your forearms are burning by mile two, check your grip first. Loosen up. Let the strap carry the load. This one takes conscious effort for a while before it becomes habit.
Over-Reaching with Every Plant
Planting the pole too far ahead of you creates a braking effect — you push forward and the pole stops you. It also strains your wrist. Keep the plant close to your hip, not out in front of your knee.
Storing Poles While Still Moving
Trying to collapse and clip a pole while walking on rocky trail is a good way to twist an ankle. Stop. Find flat ground or a wide section of trail. Collapse and stow, then move on. Same when pulling them out — stop, extend, lock, then go.
My early hikes were a catalog of these errors. Wrong length, death grip, planting way too far forward, never adjusting for terrain. Each one cost me something — sore forearms, tired knees, awkward rhythm. I fixed them one at a time over about a season of hiking, but knowing them up front would have saved me a lot of discomfort.
FAQ: Hiking Poles for Beginners
Do I really need hiking poles as a beginner?
You do not need them, but they help. Poles reduce knee strain, improve balance on rough ground, and let you hike longer with less tiredness. If you plan to hike trails with significant elevation change or uneven terrain, they are worth learning early rather than picking up the habit later.
How do I know what length hiking poles to buy?
Start with adjustable poles that cover a range wide enough for your height. Use the 90-degree elbow rule to set your flat-terrain length, then adjust from there for hills. Most beginners in the 5’5″ to 5’10” range do well with poles adjustable from 100 to 135 cm.
Should I use one pole or two?
Two poles give you the full benefit — balanced support on both sides, better rhythm, and equal load distribution. One pole is better than none, but two is the right setup for most hiking. Use one pole temporarily when you need a hand free, then go back to two.
Do hiking poles slow you down?
No — they generally speed you up. Poles let you use your upper body to help drive each step, which takes load off your legs and lets you move more efficiently over long distances. On steep uphill especially, poles can meaningfully cut your climb time.
How do I use hiking poles on stairs or steep steps?
On stone steps going up, plant the pole one step above you and push down to help lift your weight. Going down, plant one step below and use it as a brake. Keep your movements controlled — steps are often wet or uneven, and rushing with poles on stairs is how tips slip.
Can hiking poles damage trails?
Metal carbide tips can scratch rock and dig into soft soil on fragile trails. Many poles come with rubber tip covers for exactly this reason. In protected wilderness areas, put the rubber covers on when you are on rock or delicate ground. Leave No Trace guidelines are worth reading before any backcountry trip.
What is the difference between hiking poles and ski poles?
Ski poles are fixed-length, built for specific snow conditions, and have large baskets to stay above snow. Hiking poles are adjustable, lighter, and have small or interchangeable baskets for trail use. You can hike with ski poles in a pinch, but adjustable hiking poles are built for what you need on trail.
How do I carry hiking poles when I am not using them?
Most modern poles collapse to under 60 cm and can strap to the side of a daypack or slip into a side pocket. If you are scrambling or on technical terrain, collapse them fully and run them through the straps on your pack’s back panel. Do not just dangle them from your wrist while you climb — that is how you knock them into rock faces and trip yourself up.
Final Thoughts
Learning to use hiking poles is one of those skills that feels clunky for a very short time and then just becomes part of how you hike. Size them right, use the strap, stay relaxed, and adjust for the terrain. That covers 90 percent of it. The rest you pick up on trail in the first few hours.
Start on something flat — a rail trail, a wide forest road, any path where you can walk without watching every footfall. Give yourself a mile just to feel the rhythm. Then take that rhythm to something with actual hills and see how different the descent feels.
If you found this helpful and want to keep building your hiking basics, check out my post on how to prevent knee pain on the trail — it connects directly to everything we covered here about descents and load management.
Got questions about poles, or a mistake you made as a beginner that I did not cover? Leave a comment below. I read every one.
Happy trails.
— Oscar
